A full salt tank does not mean the softener is working. A hard crust, called a bridge, can form over empty space, so the salt above never reaches the water below.
Checking for a salt bridge
- Remove the lid and look at the salt level.
- Press a broom handle gently into the salt. If it hits a hard layer and then reaches water or empty space, you have a bridge.
- Break the crust with the handle without jabbing the tank walls, and remove the loose pieces.
- Run a manual regeneration according to your control head’s instructions.
Salt mush
If the bottom of the tank is a sludge of salt, the brine well can clog. Scoop out the salt, rinse the tank, and refill with fresh salt. In humid garages, salt absorbs moisture and cakes sooner, so avoid overfilling.
Other reasons for hard water
- The control head has lost its settings after a power interruption.
- The bypass valve was left open.
- The resin bed is worn from age, which tends to happen slowly in older softeners.
What this cannot tell you
A softener that still produces hard water after a clean tank and regeneration may have a worn resin bed, a stuck valve or a clogged injector. These cannot be separated by the tap test alone, so we check pressure, flow and the cycle itself.
Any plumbing changes that go beyond the softener, such as new lines or relocating it, belong with a licensed plumber.
Check the salt level monthly and keep the salt dry. Most owners find that a regular schedule prevents bridges and mush before they begin.
We repair the softener and give a written price first. Learn more on the water softener and filtration page, then pick your county on the service area page to request a visit.